Finally, I’m learning to surf. 10 years ago when I started snowboarding I said that I’d learn to surf one day, a
nd while I can’t say that I have learned, at least the process has begun.
We headed down to
Anyway, we talked to the Sri Lankan brothers that own the surf shack on the point about lessons and they we like “oh yeah, no problem, is easy, we go out
, I push you, you surf!” They live in this little shack with more boards than beds, one guitar, a bongo drum and a poster of Bob Marley. I commented on the sweet setup and got this reply, “oh yeah, is nice, we play a little…smoke a little…surf a little…” but this guy just didn’t look the part, he was a tiny Sri Lankan man wearing a shorty sarong, with short, neat hair. I just couldn’t learn to surf from a guy who looked like that! And I was nervous about the Point still. So we checked around at some of the other surf shops in town and found out that there were other, easier places to surf and much more authen
tic looking surf instructors with a really cool surf jeep. So we set up some lessons and headed off in the very cool old landrover for…the Peanut Farm! (It’s like skiing something called “Field of Daisies” or “Easiest Way Down” or climbing at “the School Yard”) Anyways, I found out later that there actually was a peanut farm there, it’s not named that because it’s so easy. But I still would’ve preferred something cooler sounding. Oh well, I guess Peanut Farm is better than “Smash up your body on the reef of death!” or some such name.
So, blah blah, long intro…I LOVE SURFING. I’m totally addicted, though really not good at all. If I have my way though, I have 11 more surfing days planned before we leave, which could be 22 surf sessions or 60 plus hours in the water. Surely by that time I’ll be able to call myself a surfer.
The surf night turned into a huge gong show (not surprisingly considering I was involved as were bad roads and trishaws.) The drive to the beach was down an old rutted track through the jungle, much like driving through sand dunes and small creeks. Another couple of Canadians, also beginners were coming out, with their surf teachers in a trishaw. Not surprisingly the trishaw broke down on the way there, but finally made it. On the way back however, the thing broke down for good. So…we decided to tow it with the behemoth we were riding in. Things went surprisingly smoothly for awhile, the rope breaking only once every 5 mins. And then, our jeep broke down. So before we knew it, the guys were out of the truck, pulling out the seats and floor boards to get at the gear box. Apparently, when you put it in reverse too quickly, it jams. So…we sat on the road for about half and hour, watching the full moon rise over the lagoon and listening to elephants snorting in the background, while the
guys tinkered with the truck. It was one of those situations where you find yourself thinking “Yeah right…there’s no way they’ll fix this thing.” Yet, everyone is optimistic and eventually…they fixed it! So then we set off down the slightly less bumpy off road track…still towing a trishaw. The rope snapped so many times that eventually they decided it would be better for the guy in the trishaw to just hold it! Which he did for another 20 mins, I can’t believe his arm didn’t fall off, but there you have it. We made it back about
Can’t wait to do it again…
4 Comments:
Hi Alanna, I think that it is great that you are becoming a surf addict! I also think it's sooo cool that you get to hear elephants!! That must be amazing! What a journey you guys have been on.
Looks like your surfing is a lot like your snow boarding. Lots if sitting around with your board, looking cool
Scott - Maybe so but a lot less frozen butt syndrome!
A
HEY GUYS! it's elyse, you better remember me! How are you crazy kids doing? Sounds absolutely amazing! I just thought of you and was wondering how things were going? I don't really know how to use this but I hope you get this comment. That's so fun, surfing must be so wicked!
You guys are the best!
Have a good time traveling the world and working to make it a better place!
Elyse Hanec (BP alumni)
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